A Guide to Jewelry Design and Anatomy
Jewelry is a precious belonging that helps a person to share a unique style statement. To understand Stone Cut, Stone Setting, Ring Style, Bracelet Style, Earring types, and much more, we are sharing a self-help glossary. Explore the useful terms of Jewels’ word.
Gemstone Setting Styles
The design of a piece of jewelry majorly depends upon gemstone setting styles. There are ten types of most common setting styles. Each has specific importance and is based on the stone cut, shape, carat, and jewelry design.
1. Prong Setting Style
Metal projections or tines to secure gemstones to a jewelry piece are called Prong Setting or Mount. These are often referred as claw setting as it securely holds the gemstone. The finishing is the key to marvelous Prong Setting Style. It is widely seen in Rings and Earrings.
These are differentiated based on the levels of the prong, you can notice a single prong on each side of the stone in the image shared above and gradually the prong increases to offer a high level of security to the stone. It holds them like a claw and helps to hold them in their right place.
Prong Type refers to the design of metal tines to hold the gemstone.
Prong Count refers to the total number of prongs used in mounting the gemstone.
2. Other Setting Style
Gemstones settings are not only restricted to metal prongs. More innovative mountings are used to bring uniqueness to the Solitaire Jewelry Pieces.
The Basket Setting secures the gemstone in basket shape featuring metal prongs and based on the prong count, the Basket Setting can be further categorized. The image depicts a 4-Prong Basket Setting. It can be easily noticed in Rings and Earrings.
Peg Head Setting
Peg Head Setting is separately soldered on the shank of the ring to hold the gemstone a bit higher. Based on the prong count, 4 Prong Peg Head and 6 Prong Peg Head Settings are frequently used in crafting Engagement Rings. The most secure placement of the gemstone is enjoyed by peg head setting.
Bezel & Half Bezel Setting
Bezel Setting holds the Gemstone within a thin metal rim or collar. The Bezel Setting completely secures the gemstone by metal overlapping the gemstone edges. The security offered by the overlapping edges holds the softest gemstone in the rock-solid form.
The Bar Setting secures the Gemstone between two parallel metal bars, leaving enough space for the light to pass through the gemstone and maximize the brilliance. Bar settings are considered ideal for engagement rings and wedding rings.
Bright Cut Setting
In a Bright-Cut Setting, highly polished metal walls are used as highly reflective surface which reflects light to the gemstone enclosed in such setting.
Bridge Accent Setting holds the head of the ring and sometimes smaller gemstone settings. This setting is also quite popular for a comfortable feel on the finger.
Illusion Setting is a kind of prong setting designed to make the diamond look bigger by a highly polished ring of metal surrounding the girdle of diamond.
The Tension-Mount Setting holds the gemstone in place by utilizing the tension generated along the band of the ring.
Trellis Setting features prongs that interweave to hold the gemstone in place. The Trellis Setting is decorative to elevate the elegance of rings.
In a Channel Setting, gemstone accents are studded along the shank between two walls of metal. It is mostly used in bracelets, bangles and earrings.
In a Pinpoint Setting, gemstone accents are fitted along the shank between two walls of metal and individually held by micro-prongs in place.
The Scallop Setting features metal beads in U-Shape cutout underneath to hold the gemstone accents.
In the Fishtail Setting, diamond or gemstone accents are set low into the metal with delicate fishtail shaped cuts.
The Pave Setting is characterized by small gemstones arranged close to each other in such a way that the metal surface of the shank is not visible.
In Gypsy Setting, diamond or gemstone accents are sunken into the metal on the shank.
The variety of shapes helps to create the dense catalog based on further designing and setting of the stone. Every stone has a specific set of shapes that are possible to make impactful jewelry designs.
- Asscher/Square Emerald
- Square Cushion
- Sitraight Baguette
Gemstone Color & Birthstone Glossary
|4.||February||Green Amethyst||Quartz||Dull Green|
|9.||April||Lemon Quartz||Quartz||Light Yellow|
|15.||June||Smoky Quartz||Quartz||Brownish Grey|
|17.||June||South Sea Pearl||Pearl||White Golden|
|19.||June||Tahitian Pearl||Pearl||Black Iridescent|
|24.||September||Blue Sapphire||Corundum||Royal Blue|
|30.||October||Green Tourmaline||Silicate||Rich Green|
|32.||October||Orange Tourmaline||Silicate||Brownish Orange|
|35.||October||Fire Opal||Silica||Yellow Orange Red|
|38.||December||London Blue Topaz||Topaz||Dark Blue|
|39.||December||Sky Blue Topaz||Topaz||Sky Blue|
|40.||December||Swiss Blue Topaz||Topaz||Deep Blue|
|41.||December||Pink Onyx||Onyx||Light Pink|
Shank Profile & Style
Shank Profile is the shape of the shape of the cross section obtained if the shank of the ring was to give a perpendicular cut.
Shank Style refers to the shape of the shank when viewed from the top.
- Reverse Tapered
Ring Styles with Applicable Occasions
Solitaire Ring is the classic piece featuring a single diamond or gemstone in unique mountings for a sophisticated look.
Occasion - Traditionally, solitaire rings have been used as Engagement or Proposal Rings.
Halo Ring is the style featuring a center gemstone encircled by small diamond accent to enhance the sparkle and offer more elegance to the wearer.
Occasion - Halo Rings have been popularly used by women to adorn them as engagement rings.
Two Stone Ring
The Two Stone Ring featuring two diamonds or gemstones is a symbolism of the fact that two individuals become one when they come together in marriage.
Occasion - Two stone ring or Forever us ring are popular among couples as proposal and promise rings.
Three Stone Ring
The Three Stones in this Ring Style are often associated with the Past, Present and Future or Friendship, Love and Fidelity among couples.
Occasion - Three Stone or Trinity Rings are increasingly popular choice of engagement or proposal and promise rings.
Vintage Inspired Ring
The Vintage Inspired Rings are specifically designed to revive the feel of Rings from the bygone era. Vintage Rings feature fancy gemstone cuts, unique settings and metal embellishments to replicate Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco Ring Styles.
Occasion - Vintage Inspired Rings are both unique and fancy choice of engagement rings for women with a knack for Vintage look.
Cocktail Rings are large pieces set with fancy cut large multi-color gemstones in cocktail settings.
Occasion - As the name suggests, the cocktail rings can be chosen for cocktail parties and are seldom chosen by women as engagement rings to make statement of their bold personality.
Promise Rings are usually exchanged among lovers while in relationship. These rings are more of pre-proposal rings to express their love and commitment.
Occasion - Promise Rings are often used by people to honor various promises made among friends, lovers, parent-children, etc.
Eternity Ring is set with an unbroken circle of gemstones along the band. The diamond eternity symbolizes eternal love.
Occasion - Eternity Rings are a popular choice for the wedding ceremony and can sometimes be chosen for the wedding anniversary.
Stackable Rings, as the name suggests, are chosen to stack them with other rings. The stackable rings usually tend to be thin band rings to facilitate stacking.
Occasion - Stackable Rings are generally used as anniversary rings, wedding rings and sometimes as promise bands for women to compliment their outfit with.
The Band Rings are crafted in either simple gold band style or are sometimes embellished with gemstones.
Occasion - Band Rings are often chosen as anniversary bands or couple band rings.
The Ring Sets are a combination of Engagement Ring and Stackable Wedding Band.
Occasion - The Engagement-Wedding Ring Set are a popular choice of Bridal Ring Sets complementing each other.
The Stud Earrings tend to fall on the smaller side of earrings that sit on the earlobe without dropping down or climbing up the ear.
The Drop Earrings are often simple pieces worn on the earlobe and drop just below the earlobe.
Dangle Earrings are those which are long enough to significantly hang or dangle below the earlobe, sometimes to brush against the shoulders.
The Hoop Earrings are designed in a circular metal framework often adorned with sparkling gemstones. The Hoop Earrings are symbolism of unity, infinity and wholeness
Huggie Earrings are a variety of little hoop earrings that ‘hug’ your earlobe closely and usually tend to be thicker when compared with the Hoop Earrings.
Climber Earrings are modern pair of elongated stud earring which climbs ‘up’ the earlobe for a distinct look.
Earring Back Findings
The easy back lock to secure your earring with the help of a spring-loaded lever which is tied up to a wire is the lever back.
The hook shape latch back helps to securely lock the earring by passing through the loop.
The widely used back hook for fashion jewelry is the fish hook. The wire of the hook passes through the piercing without any lock.
Flat Screw Back
Flat Screw back helps to keep the earring in the right place and ensure complete security of the jewelry.
The Solitaire Pendant features a single diamond or gemstone encased with unique settings for simple jewelry adornments.
Three Stone Pendant
The Three Gemstone in this Necklace Style are symbolism of Past, Present and Future or Friendship, Love and Fidelity among couples.
Halo Pendant Necklace features a center gemstone encircled by small diamond to enhance the radiance and add more grace to the wearer.
The Bar Necklace style is designed in horizontal or vertical metal bar with or without gemstone embellishments. The Bar Necklace is a popular choice of Layering Necklace among women.
The Dangle Necklace boasts elongated pendant drop which is free to dangle like a pendulum.
The Station Necklace is characterized by adornments like gemstones or charms along a chain in stations.
Initial and Charm Necklace
The Initial and Charm Necklace range features alphabets and symbols like heart or infinity, often studded with vibrant gemstones.
Necklace and Earrings Jewelry Set
As the name suggests, the necklace and earrings set constitute the elegant Jewelry Set for women to compliment her outfit for any occasion.
- Rabbit Ear
- Pendant with Bail
- Hidden Bail
The Bolo Bracelet is characterized by an adjustable sliding mechanism to facilitate comfortable wear.
The Tennis Bracelet fashions a symmetrical pattern of gemstones arranged in an array and connected by a thin metal chain.
A Chain Bracelet comes with a simple link chain with or without gemstone or charm stations.
The Charm Bracelet range comes with decorative charms, and are often studded with vibrant gemstones.
Bangle Bracelets are designed in bangle style and are decorated with radiant gemstones.